Men's Day

This weekend was pretty crazy.
The 23 of February is a holiday that in concept is like America's Veteran's Day, but in practice is Men's Day. Because almost every Russian man was in the military he has the right on this day to do whatever he pleases.
"Really?" you might ask, "Isn't every day Men's Day in Russia, Nicole?"
I would tend to agree, but according to Soviet-instilled tradition, there must be a day when men can feel extra comfortable having their way.
My Grand Man Day began when I decided to meet my friend Emily at Gostiny Dvor metro in Downtown Petersburg. I was a little early and she was a little late, so I was waiting outside for awhile when suddenly I heard a megaphone and saw the majority of people scramble away from the area, so I decided to go inside to wait for Emily.
When Emily got there we decided to get out of the way as soon as possible, which meant we darted off without really knowing where we were going. On our walk we realized that Militsia (Russian police) were everywhere, including OMAN, the scariest of the Militsia, with their giant scarier-than-paddywagon trucks.
So... we kept moving and ended up in front of the Church of the Savior on Spilled Blood, so we went inside.
The rest of my day was pretty normal, but the night was slightly strange. Men's Day is known as one of the most dangerous nights of the year, and I was set to be extremely careful when I went out with friends. When it was time to eat dinner, my host mom asked me if I wanted to drink beer, and I said, "No thanks you" but in Russian. Then, when her boyfriend came in the room he asked her if I was drinking and she said, "I asked her, she said no." In response, he asks me again, and when I repeat, "No thank you," he responds, "Why not? It's my day, and you won't drink with me?" So, as you can probably guess, my next response was,"Okay, I can."
An hour later I set off to meet my friends outside a metro station downtown. I was walking in the back of the group, and after only a few paces a guy reaches around my waist and pulls me backwards. I elbowed him in the stomach and ran away without looking back.
Then, while dancing at the Castro-Themed club Fidel I kept awkwardly avoiding a Russian guy who was whispering in my ear. When it was time to leave, two Moroccan guys who had apparently fallen in love with two of my friends followed us out so we chatted until we could get them to stay behind as we walked home.

I realize that everything sounds less exciting as a blog and I've lost the drive to write about Sunday, which wasn't as interesting.

So… it’s official. I’m homesick. And I feel guilty about it.

I’m not homesick for important reasons at all. I could forgive myself for being homesick because I miss family and friends, and even though I do miss everyone, that isn’t the cause of my blues. My homesickness is also not caused by patriotism, politics, the weather (it’s unusually warm and sunny here) or any academic or rational reason. I’m homesick because I want to watch “Jon and Kate Plus 8” and “To Catch a Thief” in my bed made up with my flannel sheets, make myself dinner with my George Foreman, take a nice temperature-stable shower that doesn’t come from a hose, and then buy an Izze soda at Target with my Chase Visa, or better yet with a $20 and no change… Oh, and take a nice stroll outside without being overwhelmed by car fumes and cigarette smoke.

Although I am obviously learning some Russian, I’m not learning as much as fast as I’d wanted to. I have also learned that unless I live here for an entire year (which I don’t want to do), I will most likely never be fluent and I am certain that my future career will not extensively involve the Russian language. I have also learned I don’t like living in the city. I’ve known at heart I was a suburban girl, but I’ve always thought everyone should live in a big city for at least a portion of their life… I now think 4 months might just be enough time for that.

I’ve also realized even more how important food is to me. (Hey, I am the one who oddly said “cooking is my life,” when I was like 7.) Now, don’t get me wrong, I’m sure I don’t want to work in a restaurant or be a chef, but I really, really miss cooking. Even improvisational dorm room cooking sounds amazing right now. I’ve never manage to appreciate how diverse American cuisine is until I got here. Although the food I get at home is delicious, I really miss having tacos one night and spaghetti the next. I realize that my normal food is only a watered-down version of whatever ethnic food it was inspired by, but Russian food is pretty limited. Although there are nice ethnic restaurants, (that are very different from their American counterparts… and I feel in my heart that ours are somehow more authentic…) eating out is generally more expensive in Russia and it isn’t normal to eat out unless it is someone’s birthday.

One thing that I don’t have to miss is reading, although I’ve purposely been reading really slowly so that I don’t run out of English materials. I can buy English literature here, but I’m trying hard not to buy money on things that I don’t need, can’t take with me, or eat.

I just bought my second bag-lady purse because my first one broke. I feel that large purses are the best way to conceal my laptop, but they are expensive and my first one already has a broken handle. This time I decided to buy one for almost twice the price of the first, but I still couldn’t bring myself to spend enough to be sure that it wouldn’t break (it would have to be all real leather…). Keep your fingers crossed for my new bag – I’m going to go write myself up a budget for the rest of my time here.

Snow and Tongue and Such

I think I just ate tongue for lunch. I could only eat like half of it; because it creeped me out a bit. I got it at school, not at home. So far everything Olga's made has been delicious.
I think I might turn purple or pink from beets, however...

The Hermitage is amazing. I went exactly a week ago. The entirety of it really is the most beautiful thing I have ever seen. I ended up separating from the group and I took (literally) hundreds of pictures – mostly of the building itself, but also many of the Greco-Roman statues. The fact that the royalty of Peter were always obsessed with the West is displayed in the fact that the Hermitage lacks solid collections from the East; but regardless I think that everyone should visit at some point in their lives. I never even made it to the 3^rd floor of the Hermitage, where many of the most famous paintings are located; I will definitely go back before I leave.

I have set my blog so that people can respond to posts now without a Google account.

I really can't think of anything to write, but I will try later.

Russian TV

January 28, 18:51 (Posted after writing)

I was extremely happy last night when I came upon the show “Taksi SuperIgra” while flipping through the channels – “Taxi Super-Game” is, you guessed it, the Petersburg version of Cash Cab! Complete with a bald-headed host-slash-driver, the show is a great Russian replica of one of my favorite shows. There are a few differences however; the driver does not ask the questions, they are recorded in the voice of a woman. Also, there do not seem to be any Red-Light challenges and there are definitely no Video Bonus Questions. However, on every ride there is an American song played and the riders must tell who sings it.

Something that didn’t make me as happy – There is a Russian version of the show Married with Children that I think is being made now (rather than being in reruns). I haven’t seen the show, but I have seen commercials, and the characters all seem to be exact Russian versions of the Americans, except for Peg who is slightly toned-down, even by the rouged-and-bedazzled Russian standards.

Since I have been here I have also watched the Russian dub of 13 Going on 30, and a few minutes of the Russian dubbed South Park – the dubs here are played right over the American, and it is very interesting to compare the voices given to the characters.

Saturday, January 26

Saturday, January 26 (Posted after writing)

It is 4:52 and I cannot sleep. The lack of sleep is at least partially my fault, because I took a long nap earlier in the evening. I have the window open because it is hot and I can hear men yelling and dogs barking, which is kind of unnerving and makes me wish I didn’t live on the first floor.

There was a last minute change and I do not live where they told me I was going to live. My hostess wasn’t able to come to the hotel to pick me up so I was sent with Mimi, another student, and her hostess who lives in the same building. When I got to the apartment I didn’t know anything besides my hostess’ first name, Olga. She left me to unpack and it was really hard not to be frightened not knowing where I was or having a method of contacting someone from CIEE.

Anyhow, I now live on the island Vasil’evskyi, but the upshot to dealing with bridges is that I now have many students who live nearby. Knowing that Mimi lives in the same building is really quite a relief. In the morning I am supposed to walk to her hostess, Nina’s house in order to go with them to the Metro to meet with our group, but I don’t really remember which direction I should walk to get to their apartment. I was nervous when they and I were dropped off so I wasn’t paying too much attention to the drive. My building is a large L, which is why it is so confusing. I think they live on the concave part of the L and I live on the outside.

So far I don’t think I’m dealing with culture shock so much as “I’m living with a woman who I can’t really communicate with very well” shock. Also, not yet having a cell phone and not having the internet is slightly strange, but I should be able to buy a cell phone on Sunday, which I believe will make me feel much more comfortable.

I don’t have a key to the apartment yet, and my hostess seems to work a lot, so I will try to ask her if she has one for me tomorrow. If not, I suppose I will have to ask a CIEE director for help.

My room is a nice size, and comparable to what I have at home, only shorter and more wide, which I think is for the better because it seems like there is more room.

The floors of the apartment are heated, which feels cozy but strange at the same time. There is also a towel heater in the bathroom, very much like the one that was in my hotel room. It is similar to an S with an extra bend made out of heated pipe that you can hang towels on. Another interesting thing is that if you turn the water in the bathroom on with a small stream it gradually turns itself off.

I cannot really think of anything to say to bring this entry to a concise ending, which might continue to be the case if I continue to journal at odd times in the night.

Here, but sleep deprived

Hi from Petersburg!
I am currently in a hotel across from my school- I meet my host family on Friday.
I haven't been able to sleep much so this post might sound a little strange.

My first flight was delayed an hour, and I ran to get to my next one, and made it just as the gate was opening. My second was fine, but my third was an hour late. Luckily, however, there were 10 other CIEE students on my final flight from Heathrow, so our escort was still waiting for us at the airport.

I haven't really been "in Russia" yet in a way, I've only been in the hotel, which is nice and right across from where I will have classes. (Initially orientation was supposed to be in the suburbs, but plans got changed somehow.)

I guess that's it...

Mailing Address

This isn't a very exciting first post, but I thought it was important to let people know where they can mail me if they would like to. Mail can be sent to:

Nicole Main
CIEE-Center for Russian Language and Culture
ulitsa Smolnogo dom 1/3
Sedmoj podezd
St. Petersburg, Russia
193311

I'm not sure why, but we have been told not to have packages sent to St. Petersburg; So, I'm not sure how I would receive a package in an emergency, but if I do find out I will keep you all posted.